💄 Why I’m against using dark contour on the face

In recent years, contouring has become one of the most popular makeup techniques. Inspired by celebrity and influencer tutorials, the method proposes to “sculpt” the face using dark tones to slim and light tones to highlight.However, from the technical perspective of visagism, this reasoning is flawed — and can completely distort facial harmony.

🌗 1. The original mistake: confusing shadow with shape

The conceptual foundation of contouring comes from classical painting, where light and shadow are used to simulate depth on a flat surface.But the face is not a canvas — it already has volume, texture, and natural light.When we apply an artificial dark shadow over a natural one, the effect is the opposite of what’s intended:

the face looks larger and heavier, because ambient light behaves differently than painted light.

In other words, shading what’s already shaded increases contrast — and contrast amplifies visual volume.

🧠 2. What happens in three-dimensional perception

In real (non-photographic) vision, when we add more shadow to an already dark area, the brain interprets that region as larger, not deeper.And when dark contour is applied to flat areas (without real cavities), the result is simply a patch of color — which the eye reads as dirt or excess product.

This kind of effect only “works” in photography, where the image is two-dimensional and contrast tricks the eye.But on a real face, in movement and natural light, the result usually looks artificial and unbalanced.

🎨 3. The visagism alternative: work with light, not with shadow

Technical visagism, as taught by Philip Hallawell and Fernand Aubry, suggests the opposite approach:

enhance the real shape of the face and harmonize its volumes through light and softness, not through imposed shadows.

That means:

• Using natural correction and highlighting tones (not artificial darkness);

• Understanding where light naturally falls;

• Balancing the image while respecting the individual structure of the face.

Instead of creating a “mask,” the goal is to bring coherence between shape, color, and identity.

💬 4. In short: dark contour is a photographic trick, not an image technique

In image consulting and visagism, we aim for expressiveness and harmony in real life, not two-dimensional studio effects.That’s why I am completely against using dark contour as a tool for real-world image construction.

It doesn’t deepen — it enlarges.It doesn’t sculpt — it distorts.And it doesn’t reveal — it hides a person’s true visual identity.

✨ Michele Trancoso’s Tip

“If you want to refine your face, use light, not shadow.Light brings clarity, truth, and balance.Shadow, when misapplied, only weighs down what was once light.”